Furnas is a unique little community on the largest island of the Azores. The place is located in the middle of the dense jungle of São Miguel in a wide crater, surrounded by 760-meter-high, forested crater walls. Furnas is the home of hot thermal springs, where you can even swim. It is a place you should definitely visit. And despite the fact that only about 1,500 people live here, there is plenty for visitors to discover. In this article, I’ll give you the best tips for Furnas and reveal the most exciting things to see and do.
As soon as you enter Furnas, you will quickly notice – or rather smell – what is special about the area. This is because the community is located in a huge crater valley above an active volcano, and there is bubbling and steaming everywhere. A hot river flows through the town and the scent of sulfur is in the air. Furnas is even one of the largest water cities in the world, which is due to the variety of springs and watercourses.
Due to its special location, Furnas has its own microclimate, which ensures a much higher humidity than on the rest of the island. On average, it is between 80% and 92%. That is why there are some other tree and plant species here, and it will sometimes seem as if you are in the deepest jungle.
Furnas is definitely a must-see when you visit the island of São Miguel. Find out what else there is to discover on São Miguel here:
General holiday tips for the Azores can be found here:
But enough introduction. Now let’s start with the best things to see in Furnas:
1. Visit Terra Nostra Park
The botanical garden Terra Nostra, in the middle of Furnas, is the main attraction of the place. Here you can not only discover all kinds of endemic plants and see what the island looked like before humans appeared, but also bathe in hot water springs.
There is a large pool with a high iron and sulfur content and a small island in the middle. There are two smaller pools next to it, but these will be renovated in 2023.
Admission to the park for tourists is from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm and costs €10. This includes use of the hot springs.
However, if you are a guest at the neighboring Terra Nostra Garden Hotels, you don’t have to stick to these opening hours, but can visit both the park and the pools 24 hours a day. I can highly recommend a stay at this hotel, even though the room rates are not exactly cheap. However, the hotel is so great that a stay is worthwhile.
It is a real highlight to bathe alone in the hot springs at night under a starry sky or even when it is raining. Or to watch the morning mist rise over the springs in absolute silence, which most visitors never get to experience.
If you want to discover Terra Nostra Park and the rest of Furnas and some culinary highlights with a guided tour and lots of tips from a local nature expert, then take a look here:
2. Marvel at the caldeiras of Furnas in the Jardim Público da Coura
Furnas is characterized by volcanic activity, which you can mainly see at the so-called caldeiras. These are hot springs from which sulfurous air evaporates.
Right in the city center, there are several of them close together and you can even visit them for free. It boils and bubbles everywhere and steam rises from all the holes. You will smell from a distance that it contains sulfur.
You can really feel that you are walking over an active volcano here. Incidentally, the last eruption was in 1630.
3. Take a drinking water tour along the mineral water springs
Another special feature of Furnas are the mineral water springs, which you will find all over the city. Most of them are located near the OMIC (Azores Microbial Observatory) at Jardim Público da Courela. The OMIC building also houses a small museum with lots of information about bacteria and a focus on the biodiversity of the thermal springs and caldeiras of the Azores. You pay a small entrance fee of €1.50 for this, and you also get a cup and a map showing you the springs with drinkable water.
There are water sources with different pH values, from alkaline to acidic. Some springs are cold and some are warm.
4. Walk along the aqueduct
On the outskirts of Furnas stands an old aqueduct that was used some time ago for the water supply of the community. It is still in very good condition and is an architectural gem in the village that tends to be overlooked by tourists.
Note: The aqueduct is not always accessible because it is located on a private road. But you can also see it from a distance and take pictures.
5. Try the Bolos Lêvedos
Bolos Lêvedos is the delicious, slightly sweet bread from the Azores. You should definitely try it when you visit, because it tastes damn good. There are bakeries producing this sweet bread all over the Azores, but it originated in Furnas.
There are several bakeries in Furnas that offer their own Bolos Lêvedos. The best known is Rosa Quental. But there is also a small, cozy shop from Glória Moniz. Glória Moniz has a bakery and a café. There are often not so many visitors in the bakery and you can also buy the Bolos Lêvedos to take away.
6. Take a walk along Lagoa Furnas
The lake of Furnas is a crater lake and is located right next to Furnas. The lake is famous for its many steaming caldeiras and fumarolas, which you can also visit for free if you don’t drive your car to the parking lot right next to it. That costs €3 per person just to park.
On the south side of the lake, you can visit the chapel Nossa Senhora das Vitórias. It is a ruin. The entrance to the Mata Jardim José do Canto garden is also here, but it is now closed.
There is a beautiful hiking trail from the city to the shore and around the lake – the PRC06 SMI.
7. Taste the most famous stew in the Azores
Furnas is also home to the so-called Cozido das Furnas. This is a stew that is not particularly suitable for vegetarians, which is cooked in the hot sulfur springs (fumarolas) at the lake of Furnas. In addition to regional products such as cabbage, potatoes and carrots, it also contains beef, pork and chicken, as well as sausages.
You always have to order Cozido in advance, because it takes all day for the dish to cook in the springs. The most famous restaurant in Furnas for this is Tonys. It’s best to call them directly and ask for the Cozida. However, the stew is also available in other restaurants in the city.
There are also guided tours that include a Cozida at Furnas, for example, here:
8. Swim in the Poça da Dona Beija
Hot springs for swimming in Furnas are not only found in the Terra Nostra garden. You can also relax in the hot thermal water of the thermal pools of Poça da Dona Beija. This is a great option, especially when it’s rainy outside.
The water running out of the Lomba das Barracas cave is channeled here into four different pools, with a small river running in between. The water temperature is about 39 degrees Celsius.
“Poça”, by the way, translates as “puddle”. You can get in for €8 per person. However, you are only allowed to stay there for a maximum of 1 hour and 30 minutes.
A swim at night under the stars is also a great experience. You can find offers for this here:
9. Visit the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Alegria
This typical Azorean-style church is a jewel right in the center of Furnas. Although it is not very old – it was completed in the 1960s – but with its central location and a rather rare floor plan in the Azores, it is a great photo opportunity. The church is usually open and you can also see it from the inside.
10. Admire Furnas from above at Miradouro do Salto do Cavalo
Since Furnas is surrounded by crater walls, there are some great viewpoints where you can see the entire crater valley from above. One of the best is the Miradouro do Salto do Cavalo on a small country road north of the city.
If you have a rental car, you should definitely visit it on a nice, fog-free day.
11. Take a walk through the Jardim da Alameda – a garden and stage for events
Not everything in Furnas is subject to a fee. For example, you can walk through the colorful and well-kept garden Jardim da Alameda along the river for free. There is a small aquarium with fish to marvel at, as well as an artificial waterfall. You will also find lots of hydrangeas here.
12. Stroll through the Parque Dona Beatriz do Canto
This English-style private garden is open to the public in August only. The garden was laid out in the mid-19th century and a river flows through it. The French-Swiss chalet in the middle of the garden provides a contrast to the tropical plants.
13. Find the upside-down house
You are walking unsuspectingly through Furnas and suddenly you see a house standing on its head? Then you have found the Casa Invertida. You cannot enter it, it is only a sculpture. Conclusion: a great Instagram photo spot.
14. Buy fresh fruit and regional products at a fruteria
Frutaria Luís Estrela sells a wide range of fresh fruit, attractively displayed outside the shop. Inside, you can also buy all kinds of other local products from the Azores. You might find a souvenir here.
The volcanic lake of Furnas is definitely one of the main attractions on São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores. Have you been here before or would you like to visit Furnas some time? Let us know in the comments.
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