Alabaster Coast Normandy: The most beautiful places along a 1-week road trip

When you stand at the foot of the white limestone cliffs and look up at the cliffs, you are sometimes left speechless.

At least that’s how I often felt on my road trip along the Cote d’Albatre (alabaster coast) from Le Tréport to Étretat. This coastal region in the north of France takes its name from the characteristic alabaster-colored chalk cliffs. And these cliffs are your constant companions along the entire route. You will repeatedly visit fantastic spots from which you can marvel at this wonder of nature.

Many of the maritime resorts along the Cote d’Albatre are quite similar, whether large or small. There is almost always a casino, a harbor with a beach promenade and a carousel. But each town also has its own special features that are worth discovering. In this article, I’ll show you which of these you shouldn’t miss, but also give you a few tips on quieter areas along this Alabaster Coast route where not so many visitors stop.

How long on the Alabaster Coast?

You can complete this route along the Alabaster Coast in a relaxed 5 to 7 days. It is worth staying more than just one night in Etrétat and Le Tréport to discover all the highlights in peace and quiet and in different light moods.

Best starting point for a road trip along the Alabaster Coast?

I myself started my road trip in Le Tréport and then drove further and further west. The route recommendation in this article is designed so that you can continue on towards the Côte Fleurie afterwards.

However, it is also possible to simply reverse this route here. This is particularly advisable if you are traveling via Le Havre, the largest city in the region.

Rental car or camping?

The Alabaster Coast is actually perfect for a road trip with a rental car, as there is plenty of accommodation and vacation apartments along the way. Even in the high season, you can usually find something spontaneously. Campsites are somewhat rarer and book up quickly in the high season.

One major disadvantage is the journey. There is no major airport in the region and you usually have to travel to Paris by train and then on towards Le Havre. It’s better if you arrive by rental car or your own car from home.

Here you can find good rental cars for your route. Simply enter your start and end point and compare the best offers:

Accommodation along the Alabaster Coast

The Cote d’Albatre is a very popular region for short trips in France. Tourists from Paris in particular like to come here, as the coast is only around 2 hours away from the French capital.

There is a correspondingly wide range of accommodation options here. I myself was traveling by van and always stayed at campsites, but in this article I will also give you tips for good hotels if you are traveling with a normal rental car.

Vacation apartments are also a popular accommodation option on the Alabaster Coast.

Camping along the Alabaster Coast

There are not as many campsites along the Alabaster Coast with all the trimmings as you might be used to in other countries. The sanitary facilities on the sites are often a little older and many of the sites now offer more mobile homes (small vacation apartments) than pitches for campers or caravans.

Nevertheless, I think a camping tour is worthwhile. Because if you get the coveted pitches right on the coast, you can enjoy the sunset to the sound of the waves. You can also do that in a hotel, but camping still gives you that road trip feeling of freedom.

• You should note that many campsites do not offer Wi-Fi, and if they do, it is usually very slow and not secure. You should therefore get a correspondingly large mobile contract or a prepaid SIM card for France in advance.
• Often there is also no toilet paper or soap in the campsite bathrooms. So you should have that with you.

1. Arrival in Le Tréport & Mers-les-bain

• Day 1 to day 3: 2 overnight stays
• Accommodation tip: Hotel Le Saint-Yves
• Campsite tip: Camping Municipal Parc du Château

Le Tréport is considered the gateway to the Alabaster Coast and is an ideal starting point for your route.

The charming seaside resort impresses with its historic harbor district, the spectacular white chalk cliffs and its proximity to the neighboring towns of Mers-les-Bains and Eu. While you stroll through the narrow streets of the Quartier des Cordiers or take the free elevator up to the cliffs, you can enjoy fantastic views of the sea. The colorful Belle Époque architecture in Mers-les-Bains, the magnificent castle of Eu and the fresh Atlantic air on the coast will put you in the right mood for the other highlights of the Alabaster Coast.

You can find much more information about this region in the following article:

Le Tréport: 10 sights for the gateway to the Alabaster Coast

2. Le Tréport to Veules-les-Roses

• Day 3: 1 overnight stay
• Accommodation tip: Relais Hôtelier Douce France
• Camping tip: Camping Du Grand Sable

On day 3, you set off in the morning in the direction of Dieppe. There you can explore the city for a few hours. There are also a few more highlights to discover on the way to your next overnight stay.

Dieppe

The coastal town of Dieppe, which only has around 30,000 inhabitants, is best known for its medieval castle. You should definitely visit it and soak up the view over the rooftops of the town from the various vantage points.

The town also has a lively harbor, a beautiful marina for long walks and a number of historical sights. The spiritual heart of the city is Saint-Jacques Cathedral. I was particularly impressed by the graceful, almost mysterious atmosphere created by the soft light coming in from outside through the ornately decorated stained glass windows.

Belvédère de Hautot-sur-Mer

It is worth making a short stop at the Belvédère de Hautot-sur-Mer, a little west of Dieppe. From this viewpoint directly on the road, you have a great view of the bay.

Manoir d’Ango

This listed manor house is a historical monument that you should definitely visit. It was built around 1530 by a wealthy shipowner from Dieppe and contains Byzantine-inspired elements, a pleasure garden and magnificent rooms.

Inside the rooms, you will learn more about the history of the country estate and its owners. In total, you should allow around 30 to 60 minutes for this. If you would like to explore the area around the property in more detail, it will take around 1.5 hours. The entrance fee to the Manoir d’Ango is €5.50.

Camping Du Grand Sable

If you prefer to camp rather than stay in Dieppe or Veules-les-Roses, then this campsite is a highlight. It is often fully booked, but you can try to get one of the only 11 available pitches for one night.

In the low season, it is the only pitch along the coast with a direct view of the sea – which turns a glorious red and orange at sunset.

The pitches feel like you’re looking out to sea from your balcony. You also have direct access to the beach.

L’Escalier des falaises

Along the entire route along the Alabaster Coast, there are always small gorges between the rocks. One of the most beautiful are the L’Escalier des falaises (literally: “stairs of the cliffs”).

A long staircase leads all the way down here. In the middle, you have a great view directly to the side of the steep cliff. In the background, the sea spray crashes against the rocks.

Veules-les-Roses

Here in Veules-les-Roses, flows the Veules, France’s shortest river. It is just 1149 meters long. Les Roses means “the roses”. The addition was introduced in 1897 when the village became more touristy and attracted many visitors and artists from Paris.

In 2017, the village was even awarded the title “Les plus beaux villages de France”, making it one of the most beautiful villages in France.

An idyllic path leads along the river from its source to its mouth in the English Channel. On a walk, you will pass water wheels, picturesque half-timbered houses and lots of romantic gardens full of colorful flowers.

Lots of cress grows at the source of the stream, which you can also buy in its processed form from the locals at a local stall. There are many cafés and restaurants in the center of the village.

As Veules-les-Roses is very popular, there is usually quite a lot going on here. Whole groups of tourists are brought here by bus and the many parking spaces on site are often full, especially at the weekend.

If you want to explore the town without all the hustle and bustle, then an overnight stay in Veules-les-Roses is a good idea. The Relais Hôtelier Douce France is ideal for this. The hotel’s old house is located directly on the river and exudes historical charm.

3. Veules-les-Roses to Fécamp

• Day 4: 1 overnight stay
• Accommodation tip: Hotel Le Grand Pavois in Fécamp
• Campsite tip: Camping Bel Air Village de Reneville

From Veules-les-Roses, you cycle a slightly longer section to Fécamp (approx. 50 km). Along the way, you can take a break at the beautiful beaches and cliffs of the Alabaster Coast.

Plage de Saint-Pierre-en-Port

A beautiful and less crowded stopover on the way west is the Plage de Saint-Pierre-en-Port. It is a typical bay for the region: a pebble beach framed by steep cliffs in a sheltered location – but with far fewer tourists than the tourist hotspots.

You can also swim here, but simply sitting on the bench, watching the waves and collecting a few oddly shaped pebbles is a lot of fun.

I loved the proximity to nature here. During my visit, there were only a few toilets and a mobile cart with street food, but otherwise no major tourist facilities.

Fécamp

Your first view of Fécamp is at Cap Fagnet, at least if you are traveling from the east. There is an old bunker complex here, a remnant of the German Atlantic Wall from the Second World War. A few signs provide historical information about the site. The view over the city and the bay is spectacular.

Fécamp itself is best known for the Palais Bénédictine. This building dates back to the 19th century and is actually a mixture of distillery, palace and museum. The famous Bénédictine liqueur is produced here. There are a few English-speaking guided tours every day, which are best booked online in advance. The Connoisseur Experience includes a visit to the distillery, the museum and a tasting.

In Fécamp, it is also worth visiting the fishing museum, the Abbatiale de la Sainte Trinité and, of course, the marina with its lighthouse.

4. Fécamp to Étretat

• Day 5 and Day 6: 2 overnight stays
• Accommodation tips:
  • Hotel Le Rayon Vert directly on the beach in a 19th century building
  • Dormy House above the cliffs of Étretat
  • Les Tilleuls Etretat – really cozy boutique hotel in the middle of town
• Camping tip: Camping Abijune

We continue along the coastal road to Étretat, which is probably the absolute highlight of the Alabaster Coast for most visitors. I therefore recommend staying here for at least a whole day, ideally with 2 overnight stays. But before that, there are a few possible intermediate destinations that are also worth a look.

Yport

Yport is best known as a picturesque fishing village with a maritime character and a pebble beach with colorful boats and blue and white striped beach houses.

It’s worth a visit to walk along the beach, eat a crepe at one of the stalls and explore the town center a little.

Étretat

Étretat is one of the most beautiful, but also one of the most crowded places on the entire Alabaster Coast. Nevertheless, it is definitely worth a visit. It is the highlight for many visitors to this region.

If you come here on a weekend and then also in the most glorious weather, you probably won’t be able to avoid thousands of other visitors. At least that’s how I felt during my visit. But I still found it very beautiful because the coast here is particularly spectacular with its striking rock formations, arches and needles.

In my opinion, the evening atmosphere is really phenomenal when the limestone cliffs turn a soft yellow-orange. But the atmosphere here is also really brilliant in the morning.

The best place to stay is somewhere nearby. It’s only a 15-minute bike ride from Camping Abijune to the beach. But even if you need more comfort, you’ll find plenty of great boutique hotels in Étretat itself, as well as cheaper accommodation.

One highlight is a hike along the coastal hiking trail. Here you hike across the high plateau from where spectacular coastal views await you, such as the Porte d’Aval rock gate and the L’Aiguille rock needle.

However, there are so many tourists on the trail that some places have now been closed. There have also been some treacherous falls. On the cliffs themselves, access to all caves, including the Chambre des Demoiselles at the Porte d’Aval and the Descente au Chaudron at the Porte d’Amont, is prohibited. On the high plateau paths of the two rock arches, a minimum distance of five meters from the edge of the cliff must be maintained. Anyone who ignores these regulations or crosses barriers risks a fine of 135 euros.

Another highlight is the Jardins d’Etretat. For an entrance fee of €12.90, you can enjoy a mixture of artistically cut plant sculptures, modern works of art and a spectacular view of the coastal landscape.

5. Le Havre

My road trip ends in Étretat. However, the Alabaster Coast actually continues to Le Havre, the largest city in Normandy, with a little less than 200,000 inhabitants and a major port.

The city center of Le Havre was rebuilt after the Second World War under the direction of Auguste Perret and has been under UNESCO protection since 2005. The city is definitely worth a visit, but on this road trip I focused more on natural highlights and smaller towns.

If you would like to visit Le Havre, you can find a great Le Havre article by Nadine here (in German).

As you can see, the Alabaster Coast really does offer many great highlights. Have you ever been here yourself or are you planning a trip to this region of Normandy? Then please write me a comment with your suggestions or questions.