A view of the vast Sicilian landscape awaits you from the castle of Erice.

Sicily itinerary – This 6-day road trip will be your best holiday of the year

Turquoise-blue water on a golden sandy beach, ancient Greek temples and an impressive active volcanic landscape – Sicily, Italy’s largest island, is known for all of this. And on your personalised Sicily round trip, you will also get to know historic towns, dream beaches and Europe’s largest active volcano. Because here I’ll show you a perfect Sicily route for 6 days by car. I’ll give you lots of tips and tell you what you absolutely mustn’t miss.

Sicily is Italy’s largest island and whether north, south, east or west – there are great sights, beaches, hotels and highlights in all areas that you could easily spend several weeks on. This Sicily itinerary focuses mainly on the south and south-east of Sicily, with short detours to the west and north.

Hikers on Etna jumping over the volcanic sand
At the end of the route, you can get your daily dose of adrenaline by jumping down the volcanic sand fields.

I got lots of tips from a friend who was born in Sicily. On this Sicily round trip, you will therefore not only find the typical Sicilian sights but also one or two insider tips that not every tourist necessarily visits.

How long do I need for a round trip to Sicily?

You won’t be able to discover the whole of Sicily in just one weekend. To visit all the highlights in a really relaxed way, stay a little longer on the beach and also take in a hike or two and explore the city, I would recommend 2 weeks.

Torreta Pepoli and the castle of Erice with a view over the vast Sicilian landscape
This view of the Torreta Pepoli also awaits you on a week-long tour of Sicily.

This Sicily route here is very suitable for a 1-week road trip. It is definitely doable, but you will definitely have to skip a few places to be able to travel without stress. I’ll show you a route here with the highlights that I would recommend for this time.

Arrival in Palermo or Catania?

Sicily has 2 cities with major airports that are served by a lot of other European airports:

  • Palermo-Punta Raisi “Falcone e Borsellino” in the north-east of the island
  • and Catania-Fontanarossa in the east of the island.

The best-known highlights of Sicily are in the south-east. But there are also many cool spots in the west. That’s why it’s best to land in Palermo and fly back from Catania, or vice versa.

Where you land and fly off again also depends on the availability of flights and prices, of course.

I myself landed and took off again from Palermo, as there were simply no flights to or from Catania. That’s why I had to travel the longest distance on the last day, 4 hours by car. I could have saved myself that if I had been able to fly back from Catania. But it wasn’t a big problem now either.

Route for your Sicily round trip – from Palermo to Catania

Here you can find the individual route sections on the map:

Click on the relevant section to jump directly to the corresponding part of the article:

1. Palermo – Realmonte

The airport is located around 35 km west of Palermo. It makes the most sense to pick up a hire car directly at the airport and start your Sicily round trip heading west. This also means that you cannot visit Palermo on this route.

Many people I spoke to also thought other places in Sicily were much better. However, if you fly back from Palermo and still have enough time, you can still visit the city at the end of your trip.

Castellammare del Golfo

The first highlight awaits you in Castellammare, around 30 minutes by car from the airport. At the Belvedere Castellammare del Golfo viewpoint, you have a fabulous view over the small harbour town.

If you walk past all the tourists, you will find a small path at the end of the car park that leads under the viewing platform. From there you have an uninterrupted view. Salamanders cross the path from time to time. This leads down to the town.

View of Castellammare
Great view of Castellammare.

Erice

After another 50-minute drive, you will reach the historic village of Erice on the mountain of the same name. The view from the Giardino del Balio (garden) to the Torretta Pepoli (a small castle) over the Sicilian countryside is famous because it is so breathtaking. The Castello di Venere towers in the background.

Sicily round trip: View over the coast from the castle of Erice
A view of the vast Sicilian landscape awaits you from the castle of Erice.
Sicily round trip: Torreta Pepoli
The view of the Torreta Pepoli is one of the highlights of your tour of Sicily.

I can also recommend a stroll through Erice’s cobbled alleyways. In addition to numerous souvenir stalls, there are also beautiful little squares and a few churches to discover.

Empty alleyways through the historic town of Erice in Sicily
A few of the side alleyways in Erice are almost empty despite the large crowds of tourists.

Gibbelina & Poggioreale

We continue south to the centre of the Trapani region. There was a severe earthquake here in 1968. Hundreds of people were killed and 10 villages were destroyed, two of which are now only ghost towns – Poggioreale and Gibellina Vecchia. The rest were rebuilt elsewhere.

Poggioreale: The gate was locked when I visited. However, you can easily climb over the wall next to the gate. After your first steps in this ghost town, you will feel the almost spooky atmosphere. Crows caw, stray dogs roam around, signs warn of asbestos in the ruins and a camera watches everyone who wanders along the street.

Sicily round trip: The ghost town of Poggioreale
Creepy: the empty alleyways of the ghost town of Poggioreale.

In Gibellina Vecchia, the ruins of the village were built over with white cement by artist Alberto Burri. What looks like a labyrinth represents the former village alleyways – a rather striking and impressive monument amidst the green vineyards.

The labyrinth of Gibbelina in Sicily
The labyrinth of Gibbelina.

Realmonte & Scala dei Turchi

A gleaming white cliff jutting out into the azure blue water – the Scala dei Turchi is one of Sicily’s most famous sights. It is a cliff made of white marl, which looks like a staircase due to its different layers.

Scala dei Turchi
This is where crowds of buses full of tourists flock during the day. If you come in the morning after sunrise, however, it is less busy. Then you can even catch a photo or two without people in the picture.

You don’t need any special footwear for this walk. Flip flops are enough. Nevertheless, you should not be afraid of heights and only walk in the middle section of the path.

There is always a lot going on here, especially at sunset. You can also enjoy the setting sun from the top of the cliffs.

View of the Scala dei Turchi from above
The view of the white steps of the Scala dei Turchi from the top of the cliffs

It is also well worth exploring the coast around the Scala dei Turchi and Agrigento. The best way to do this is by boat. There are several providers that usually depart from the small harbour in San Leone:

The nearby town of Realmonte is a good place to stay. There are a few hotels and lots of private accommodation here. One special place is the Open Space Scala dei Turchi, which you can book via airbnb. Here you have a huge balcony with a panoramic view of the mountains.

Very good alternatives to this, which are located directly on the Scala dei Turchi, include the Pension La Scogliera Turca, the Bed & Breakfast B&B Villa Eleonora or B&B Villa Deleo and the private room La Perla Scala dei Turchi.

But there is more accommodation in the region. Take a look here:

Find accommodation in Realmonte

2. Realmonte – Ragusa

Valley of the Temples

Before the Romans, the ancient Greeks were already on Sicily. They left their mark on the south-east of the island in particular. The highlight, however, is the Valley of the Temples near Agrigento. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.

Temple of Hera in the Valley of the Temples in Sicily
The Temple of Hera is the highest temple in the entire complex.

For an entrance fee of €12, you can visit many ancient temples and ruins from times long past. It is definitely worth a visit. The oldest building dates back to around 600 BC

Sicily round trip: the Concordia Temple Valley of the Temples
The Concordia Temple.

Would you like to see the Valley of the Temples at sunset without queuing at the entrance? Then take the sunset tour in the Valley of the Temples with a guide, who will also explain a lot (in English).

The valley is only around 20 minutes by car from the Scala Dei Turchi. So you can head there straight after checking out as the next stop on your tour of Sicily. You should plan around 3 hours there to see everything.

Coastal region from Scoglitti to Marina di Ragusa

A somewhat longer journey awaits you from the Valley of the Temples to Scoglitti. It will take you around 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Along the coastal region from Scoglitti to Marina di Ragusa, you can make a few stops at small, sleepy beach towns. When I visited this area, I had the beaches almost all to myself. At a distance from the somewhat larger Marina di Ragusa, there were also only a few restaurants open.

The deserted beach of Scoglitti in Sicily
How deserted: The wide sandy beach of Scoglitti.
Beach of Punta Secca in Sicily
I also really liked the fishing village of Punta Secca.

Ragusa

Ragusa was one of the most beautiful cities on my tour of Sicily. It is absolutely typical of Sicily and its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In Ragusa, you can also enjoy one of the most beautiful views in the whole of Sicily.

Sicily round trip Ragusa by night
On the terrace of the Church of St Mary of the Stairs, I found the view of Ragusa’s old town to be the best. Come here in the evening and watch the sun set behind the rooftops and the streets of the city slowly glow a bright yellow-red.

The city basically consists of two parts – old and new – separated by a deep ravine. The old town was the part of Ragusa that was not destroyed by an earthquake in the 18th century. This is also where you will find the best hotels and restaurants.

Go to Palazzo Maiorana and try a wine-flavoured ice cream at Divine Ice Creams. Afterwards, you can walk up the stairs to the left of the Duomo di San Giorgio church to the top of the Castello di Ragusa Ibla.

The square at the Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa, Sicily.
The square at the Duomo di San Giorgio with many shops and restaurants.

A friend who comes from Ragusa recommended the Cantunera Ibla for dinner. Trattoria la Bettola is a super-affordable restaurant. The Lucernaio Pub is popular with locals and a good place to go out in Ragusa. A walk through the Giardino Ibleo park is also lovely.

For accommodation, I recommend the B&B Terrazza dei Sogni. From the terrace on the roof, you can enjoy your breakfast with a great view over the rooftops of the old town. I also found the a.d. 1768 Boutique Hotel pretty cool in terms of style and furnishings.

There are also many other great hotels in the neighbourhood.

Find accommodation in Ragusa

3. Ragusa – Catania

Calamos beach

One of the most beautiful beaches in Sicily is Calamosche. This is probably also due to the fact that it is secluded from the tourist centres in a nature park, the Riserva naturale orientata Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari. There are no parasols or sun loungers here and no showers or snack bars. You have to bring everything you need with you. Instead, you can expect turquoise blue, crystal-clear water and a long sandy beach.

Sicily round trip Calamosche bay with beach and turquoise blue water
You can reach the beach on foot from the car park in around 20 minutes.

Noto

Noto is one of the lesser-visited towns on a tour of Sicily. But at least a short detour is worthwhile.

Noto is known for its baroque Sicilian architecture, especially the magnificent cathedral. It is famous throughout the country and is often booked for weddings.

Cathedral of Noto in Sicily
The magnificent cathedral of Noto.

Walk along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to explore the most famous sights. For a 5 euro ticket, you get access to the mirror room and the terrace with a view of the cathedral in the Palazzo Ducezio as well as entry to the city’s small but chic theatre.

Laghetti Cavagrande

The Laghetti Cavagrande is a breathtaking gorge with crystal-clear, terraced lakes, some of which are connected by waterfalls. You can also go swimming here.

Crystal-clear bathing lakes in the Laghetti Cavagrande in Sicily
You have to earn it to relax at the bathing spots.

You should be there in good time during the day, as the descent and ascent from the car park into the gorge and back takes time. I would allow 2 hours for this alone. Then another 1 hour swim and half the day is over.

It’s best to come in the morning or around lunchtime. If you only arrive at the entrance to the gorge 2 hours before sunset, you will most likely not make it back up in time in the light.

But the view from the top over the gorge is still worth it. And the journey up the winding, serpentine road is a highlight in itself.

Fontane Bianche

Another beautiful beach on the way north is Fontane Bianche. Although there are plenty of resorts here where you have to pay for sunbeds and parasols, you can chill out on a towel in a free swimming area on the very south side of the beach.

Fontane Bianche beach in Sicily
The Fontane Bianche.

Siracusa

Many travellers find Siracusa one of the more beautiful cities on their tour of Sicily and therefore spend longer here. Personally, I found the smaller towns like Ragusa or Noto more beautiful. That’s why I only visited Syracuse briefly. However, a detour for a walk along the island of Ortiga is still worthwhile.

View of the castello Maniace on the island of Ortiga in Syracuse, Sicily
You should also visit the castello Maniace on a walk around the island of Ortiga.

A personal report with lots of Siracusa tips can be found on this article from Yvonne.

Catania – Etna volcano

If you’ve visited Sicily and not been to Mount Etna, you’ve definitely missed out. Catania is the perfect starting point for your trip to Europe’s largest active volcano. A hike up the mountain is worthwhile, but only if you don’t do what all the tourists do.

Sicily round trip Etna eruption
Etna is one of the most active volcanoes in Europe.

The main tourist spot is the Silvestri crater. Here, bus after bus lines up and crowds of tourist groups are herded along the roads. Most of them take a tour around the smaller Silvestri crater and take photos with a view of the valley, but you can’t see Etna from here. Instead, a cable car, the Funivia dell’ Etna, takes you further up.

I didn’t last 10 minutes here myself. Instead, I booked a hiking tour with a local. And it was worth it. Because a little further east of the Silvestri crater, there is a hiking trail that takes you to the Valley of the Oxen. You can also walk back from there.

Valley of the Oxen on Mount Etna in Sicily
You should have seen the Valley of the Oxen. However, you have to hike a little off the beaten track to do so.

You don’t necessarily have to book a tour for this hike, but with a tour you get lots of cool tips and background information, free transport from Catania to the volcano and a visit to a nearby cave. If you’re interested in something like this, take a look at the following providers:

Catania

Apart from Mount Etna, Catania is actually just a normal Italian city like any other. However, there are still a few highlights that locals have told me about. These are mainly Catania’s culinary highlights.

Without exception, every local advised me to eat Pasta alla Norma. This is spaghetti with deep-fried aubergines and tomatoes. Pretty basic but delicious. You can also order them in other cities, but only here in Catania can you get the original. Catania’s special dessert is granita. It comes in different flavours and is somewhat reminiscent of sorbet.

Typical Sicilian dish from Catania: Pasta alla Norma
Tasty!!!

You should definitely drink the Nerello Mascalese  – This is a red wine from a regional grape variety that is grown on the fertile volcanic soil. This wine is available from super cheap in supermarkets to expensive in wine shops. A good wine shop is Wine and Charme.

Wine and Charme wine shop salesroom in Catania Sicily
Here you will find a great regional gift for your home.

A restaurant tip in Catania is the A Putia Dell’Ostello right next to the fish market. The special thing here is that you dine in a cave through which a small underground river flows. The restaurant serves modern cuisine as well as all the classics. There is also a bar above the restaurant, which is particularly popular with students.

But there are many more cool things you can do in Catania, such as the following:

I recommend the Magione del Re as a place to stay. It has a good location right next to the centre and the rooms are also great.

There are many other places to stay in Catania in a wide range of price categories. You don’t even have to pay that much for top accommodation in Catania. Take a look here:

The best accommodation in Catania

4. Catania – Taormina

Taormina

Unfortunately, the small mountain town of Taormina is just as overcrowded and overpriced as it is idyllic. Taormina seems to be a hotspot for Russian Instagram models and pensioners of all nationalities.

View of Taormina in Sicily
The idyll of Taormina attracts many tourists.

But it’s still worth a visit. Especially because of the theatre. It was built in 300 BC and is the highlight of the town. Here you can enjoy a spectacular view over the wrinkled coastal landscape and the sea. In good weather, you can also see Mount Etna in the distance. The entrance fee is a hefty €10. However, admission is free on the first Sunday of every month.

The theatre of Taormina
The breathtaking view from the theatre over the coast

Also very beautiful and not quite as crowded is the botanical garden, which is not far from the theatre. Here you can enjoy the view of Mount Etna from a bench or discover the towers designed for birdwatching. There is also an aviary with budgerigars and small parrots.

Botanical Garden of Taormina in Sicily
View of the garden from one of the towers.

Another attraction in Taormina is the Isola Bella. This island is only connected to the mainland by a small sandbank. If you don’t mind getting your feet wet, you can enter the island via this sandbank. However, you have to pay €4 to get to the top. Despite the hefty entrance fee, most of the paths are closed.

Sicily round trip: The island of Isola Bella in Taormina
It’s best to go to the beach in the early morning, when most tourists are still asleep or having breakfast.

By the way, you can also reach Isola Bella on foot, even if you have booked your accommodation at the top of the town. A short 30-minute hike along the steps takes you directly to the beach. The starting point is the Via Pirandello viewpoint. From there, you also have the best view of the coast around Isola Bella.

Visitors also like to spend a night or more in Taormina to have enough time to explore the picturesque little town. That’s why there is plenty of accommodation here.

The best hotels in Toarmina

Mountain village Castelmola

A 20-minute drive from Taormina, you can reach the 1000-strong community of Castelmola via a winding, serpentine road.

The small mountain village of Castelmola on a rock
You can recognise the village from the coast.

Castelmola is a beautiful little mountain village with great views of the coast and Mount Etna. There are also many restaurants and small local shops in Castelmola, such as jewellery shops selling jewellery made from volcanic stone.

Sicily round trip view of the coast from Castelmola
You have the best view from the castle of Castelmola.

If you don’t have a hire car, you can also reach Castelmola on foot. The hike takes around 1.5 hours. There is also a bus service (from here).

5. Taormina – Palermo

The last section of this route is the longest and takes around 4 hours. You have to drive along here to get back to Palermo airport. The motorway leads over many bridges and through tunnels. You should definitely make a stopover in Cefalù halfway along the route.

Cefalù

Cefalù is one of the most beautiful coastal towns in Sicily. It is located right by the sea at the foot of the Rocca di Cafalù. You should visit the Sicilian cathedral here at least once and walk along Via Vittorio Emanuele.

View over Cefalù from the coast with the rock in the background
The location of the town between the sea and the rock is almost dramatic.

Here are a few more personal Cefalù tips from Finding Hummingbirds.

A little outside the town, you can take great photos of Cefalù from the viewpoint at the Chiesa di S. Lucia V. M. church.

To climb the Rocca di Cafalù, you need time and good accommodation where you can relax afterwards.

The best hotels in Cefalù

Sicily round trip: Car hire tips & Sicily’s roads

You can drive on most of Sicily’s roads for free. Most of them are not in the best condition. There are often potholes, plants growing on the carriageway and poorly secured roadworks. When renting a car, I would therefore recommend that you take out fully comprehensive insurance from the outset. For example, you can search check24 for hire cars that already include insurance.

On my trip to Sicily, for example, someone hit my car, probably when I was parking. However, the insurance meant that this wasn’t a problem and I was reimbursed for the costs incurred.

There are also a few stretches of motorway in the east and north where you have to pay tolls – the A18 and the A20. Along these motorways, you drive through countless tunnels and over umpteen bridges.

Motorway in Sicily with Mount Etna in the background
Not all motorways in Sicily are free of charge.

Before you drive on the motorways, you have to pass a toll booth. It is best to drive to the counters where your licence plate is not scanned. At the other counters, you usually have to press a button and wait until a ticket comes out of the slot. When you leave the motorway again, you have to show this ticket and pay the toll in cash.

To give you an idea of the costs, here is an overview of the route costs I travelled:

  • Toll from Taormina to Messina: 2€
  • Toll from Messina to Cefalù: €9.20
  • Toll from Cefalù to the end: €0.9

Tip: Sometimes the ticket stations don’t work. Remember the station where you entered the motorway and tell the employee when you leave that no ticket came out and at which slip road you entered the toll road.

Tour of Sicily: Tips for the airport in Palermo

As I have seen many stressed travellers at Palermo airport, I would also like to give you a few tips on how you can best find your way around there.

The airport in Palermo is a little more chaotic than a normal airport. The check-in and baggage drop-off area is located on the middle floor. Then you have to go to the third floor through the controls to the gates. It can take a little longer here. You should therefore not arrive too late. 1.5 hours before the gates close should be enough time.


What highlights have you planned for your tour of Sicily? I look forward to your comments.

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