The Alhambra kissed by the morning sun

Andalusia Route – 1 week road trip in eastern Andalusia

Andalusia is one of the most beautiful destinations for a road trip in Europe. You can expect great mountain landscapes, exciting coastal stretches and fascinating cities with palaces reminiscent of 1001 Nights. In this article, I’ll tell you an Andalusia route in the east that you can drive in a week so that you can see as much as possible while still finding time to relax.

First of all: seeing all the highlights in Andalusia in just one week is not realistic. If you try anyway, you’ll end up with unnecessary stress. But no problem: because no matter where you are in Andalusia, there is plenty to see everywhere.

Andalusia route view over the landscape of the Sierra Nevada
Simply WOW: The view over the landscape of the Sierra Nevada will leave you speechless too.

In this article I will show you the East of Andalusia with the fantastic city of Córdoba, the world-famous Alhambra in Granada and many great places in the mountainous region of the Sierra Nevada as well as the more unspoilt coastal areas of this region.

Watch this video to get a first impression of Andalusia’s east:

There is also another article of mine about the west of Andalusia with Sevilla, Ronda, Cadiz and the coast around Borja:

Andalusia itinerary : The ultimate roadtrip for 1 week

If you want to discover the Andalusia sights described in both articles, then simply book a 2-week holiday in Andalusia and combine these two Andalusia routes ;). You can find the perfect road trip route here:

Andalusia round trip (2 weeks) – Your perfect route by car

Here I have also summarised the best sights in the whole of Andalusia:

21 Andalusia sights that will make your holiday unforgettable

Highlights of the one-week road trip in eastern Andalusia

The following things await you on your Andalusia road trip through the east:

  • The historic Córdoba with one of the most famous buildings in Europe, the Mesquita de Córdoba,
  • A particularly photogenic castle in Montefrio,
  • The Alhambra, Spain’s most famous sight,
  • The Canyon of Monachil,
  • The Sierra Nevada, an impressive mountain range with many idyllic Pueblo Blancos (the famous white villages),
  • Trevélez – the birthplace of the famous Spanish ham (jamon),
  • Great beaches in the nature reserve Acantilados Maro – Cerro Gordo, which is not yet so crowded,
  • The Rio Chillar, a river that you can hike along to a waterfall,
  • The “Instagram hipster mountain village” Frigiliana,
  • The tourist town of Nerja,
  • Málaga – the birthplace of Picasso
  • A lake full of flamingos
  • The Camenito del Rey – once the most dangerous hiking trail in the world

Best time to travel to Andalusia

Weather-wise, Andalusia is perfect in summer. The days are long and there is hardly any rain. However, most tourists are here in summer and the region is sometimes really crowded, especially on the coast and the beaches.

Viana Palace Patio del Archivo
Typical of Córdoba and Andalusia in general: The green patios, which often have a fountain in the middle.

Luckily, Andalusia is also the perfect place to escape from the grubby German weather in autumn or spring. I therefore recommend a trip to Andalusia in April/May or October. It may not be light for as long as in summer, but at 20° C – 22° C it is still quite warm during the day. There is also relatively little rainfall and you are spared the crowds of tourists. I myself have been to Andalusia in November and it was great. However, it can happen that it rains for a day.

Car hire in Andalusia

Hire a car when you leave your first destination, like Córdoba. I wouldn’t pick up a rental car directly at the airport after arrival. Firstly, you don’t need the car in the city and would just be paying pointless parking fees, and secondly, it’s not exactly easy to drive through the narrow streets of Córdoba’s old town.

It’s best to use a comparison portal such as check24 or billigermietwagen to find a cheap car.

Tip: I think it makes more sense to hire a smaller car for Andalusia, as there are often only very narrow streets and one-way roads in many places. It is easier to drive a smaller car. Finding a parking space is also much easier.

On my own trip, I rented a 2-door car for 7 days for 9 days for €271. It can certainly be cheaper, but this price also included fully comprehensive insurance, theft insurance, as well as tyre, glass, roof and underbody insurance. Of course, it’s even cheaper if you leave out the insurance, but I wouldn’t advise it.

Accommodation in Andalusia

Andalusia’s main source of economic income is tourism. Accordingly, there are many accommodation options – from inexpensive to luxurious.

You can actually stay in a hotel in every well-known town. However, I’ve always had good experiences with airbnb while travelling. It all depends on what you prefer.

With airbnb

You can now find many airbnb hosts offering entire flats throughout Andalusia. However, if you want to save money, socialise with the locals and improve your Spanish, then you should definitely take a private room where you live in a local’s flat. They can often give you lots of good tips that you won’t find in any travel guide.

View over the Sierra Nevada in the Cortijo Solera
This view awaits you in the

Hotels

I researched a few good hotels for my own travel plans and stayed in a few of them. If you want to stay in comfort, these hotels are a good alternative to Airbnb. However, you can also search for hotels yourself using price comparison portals such as trivago.

You might like these hotels here:

Cordoba: The Soho Boutique Atalia has cosy rooms and a fantastic roof terrace with a view of the bell tower. Especially in the evening, when it slowly gets dark and the building is lit up, it’s a great place to relax with a glass of wine. The hotel’s central location is also very convenient for exploring the city.

View from the roof of the Hospedería Del Atalia at night
The view from the roof of the Hospedería Del Atalia to the bell tower of the Mezquita at night.

Granada: The Hotel Parador de Granada is located in the centre of the Alhambra, one of Spain’s most famous sights. You stay here like the Nasrids once did in their palaces – but a little more modern, of course. I myself stayed at the Maciá Monasterio de los Basilios. This hotel was once a monastery, built in the 17th century. I found the inner courtyard of the hotel particularly beautiful.

Hotel Parador de Granada Innenof
The inner courtyard of the Hotel Parador de Granada in the middle of the Alhambra grounds.

Frigiliana: The family-run Bed and Breakfast Villa Corte Azul has received very good reviews. It is located just outside, south of Frigiliana. There is a pool and vegetarian breakfast. If you prefer a more classic hotel in the centre of Frigiliana, then the Hotel Villa Frigiliana might be something for you. The 3-star hotel has an outdoor pool, a restaurant and you can also book rooms with a balcony and mountain view.

Malaga: If you’re looking for something really special, then the luxurious 5-star Gran Hotel Miramar is for you. It is very centrally located and has exceptional facilities. An alternative is the modern Hotel Boutique Teatro Romano. As the name suggests, you’ll be staying right in the old town next to the Roman theatre and the Alcazaba.

Travel route East Andalusia for a road trip in one week

Road trip route in Andalusia's east
This is what your route along the east of Andalusia could look like.

All the stops I mention in this article can also be found here on the map:


Map in full screen.

1. Córdoba – once the most important city in the world

The city of Córdoba has one of the oldest medieval centres in the world. The remnants from the time when Catholics, Muslims and Jews lived together peacefully here are particularly fascinating. At that time, Córdoba was the most important city in the Christian West alongside Damascus, the government was based here and writers and scholars from all corners of the world came and went.

The most famous sight is the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, a former mosque in whose interior a mighty basilica was built.

Red and white striped round arches of the Mezquita.
World-famous: the red and white striped arches of the Mezquita. They are located in the Muslim part of the building.

But there are many more sights in Córdoba, which I will introduce to you in the following article:

Córdoba tips – 11 highlights you have to see

2. from Córdoba to Granada

The journey from Córdoba to Granada takes around 2:15 hours on the motorway and without detours. In my opinion, however, you should plan a stopover – the small town of Montefrío.

Montefrio and view of the castle
The view of the castle of Montefro from the centre of the town.

There is a castle here that offers you a great view over the whole town and the surrounding area. You can only buy tickets for this at a stand next to the Catholic church in the town centre. It is not permitted to enter the castle without a ticket, although this is possible.

But the view of the castle itself from a distance is also special. A viewpoint of the castle built on a steep cliff was even once described in National Geographic as one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the world.

Montefrío Castle from the National Geographic viewpoint
From a different perspective, the dramatic site of Montefrío Castle can be seen first.

When you arrive in Granada in the evening, I recommend you explore the city centre a little and have dinner in a restaurant of your choice.

Centre of Granada
The Plaza Isabel Catolica in the centre of Granada.

3. Granada and surroundings

Granada is world-famous above all for the Moorish palaces of the Alhambra. The Alhambra is the most famous sight in Spain. You’ll need at least a day just to see it. However, there are many other cool spots in Granada and the region, such as the Monachil Gorge, which is perfect for a half-day hike.

The Alhambra

If you are in Granada, you should definitely not miss the Alhambra. It is the highlight of the city and you should plan at least a full day for it. As the city castle of Granada is also one of the most visited sights in Spain, you should make sure you get your tickets in good time. The easiest way to do this is online at the official Alhambra ticket office.

Alhambra by night
In the district north of the Alhambra, there are many small miradors from which you can photograph the Alhambra. It is most beautiful at night

If you search for “Alhambra tickets” in search engines, you will also find many providers of guided tours, which often include the entrance fee in their prices. However, this is not for you if you prefer to explore everything on your own.

TIP:

There are very good audio guides at the entrance to the Alhambra for €6. These are perfect if you are not taking a guided tour but still want to hear background information about the Alhambra.

As the Alhambra consists of different areas, you can also buy different tickets for them.

  • Genaralife – This complex once served as a recreation centre for the Nasrids (= the last Muslim-Moorish dynasty). I personally found this area the most beautiful, especially in the morning at sunrise. If you go here first thing in the morning, you can still enjoy the site without many other tourists.
Flowers and rooftops in front of the Alhambra at sunrise
The fantastic morning view of the Alcazaba and the city from the Generalife.
Generalife Fountain in the Alhambra in Grenada
In the morning, you also have the idyllic gardens and water features of the Genaralife complex almost all to yourself.
  • Gardens – The gardens are located between the Nesrid Palaces and the Alcazaba. You can visit them with all tickets. Look out for the pomegranate trees that grow everywhere here.
Pomegranate on a tree
Funfact: The pomegranate is the symbolic fruit of the city and once gave it its name – Granada.
Sun-soaked path with trees in the Alhambra
Not all areas in the Alhambra have an entrance fee.
  • Alcazaba – The Alcazaba is the Moorish citadel on the highest hill of the Alhambra. From its towers, you have a fantastic panoramic view of the whole of Granada and the surrounding area.
The Alhambra kissed by the morning sun
The Alcazaba kissed by the sun.
View over the rooftops of Granada
View over the rooftops of Granada from the towers of the Alcazaba.
  • Nesrid Palaces – These palaces are the rooms where the kings of Moorish Andalusia and their followers once lived. The most famous place in the palaces is the Patio de los Leones, the Court of the Lions. Everything here is reminiscent of 1001 Nights. Entry here only works with advance booking, as only a certain number of visitors are allowed into the complex at any one time. That’s why you have to specify the exact time you want to go in and out when you book your ticket. These times are often fully booked months in advance.
Moorish architecture reflected in a fountain in the Alhambra
Moorish architecture awaits you in the palace complex.

The following ticket options are available:

  • Alhambra General – Includes entry to all areas of the Alhambra. For the Nesrid Palaces, you must specify the exact date and time
  • Gardens, Alcazaba and Generalife – This is the option if you can’t find a free date for the Nesrid Palaces. You can still see most of the Alhambra, but not the palaces. But there is also a daily quota for these tickets.
  • The Nesrid Palaces at night – This special ticket allows you to enter the Nesrid Palaces in the evening. Again, you must select the day and time beforehand.
  • Gardens and Generalife at night – If you want to discover the gardens and the Generalife late at night, you need this ticket.
  • Palace of Carlos V (Palacio de Carlos V) – this Renaissance palace is also located in the Alhambra. It is reminiscent of a Roman theatre. Inside is the Museum of the Arts.
Gardens of the Alhambra
The gardens inside the Alhambra invite you to linger.

What to do if you haven’t bought tickets beforehand

In my case, the tickets for the palaces were sold out long before my visit. What’s more, I didn’t even know when exactly I would be in Granada at the beginning.

If you have planned enough time for Granada, then it may be possible to get tickets for the gardens, the Alcazaba and the Generalife for the next day. That was the case for me, for example. These areas of the complex are also very beautiful and show you how people once lived here 1,000 years ago.

Garden in Genaralife
Generalife from a distance

If you really don’t have an extra day, there is also the option of getting tickets on the same day. But you have to get up very early, ideally queue long before the ticket office opens and have a bit of luck. You can buy tickets at the ticket office from 8.00 am. So if you’re there at 7.30am, it’s quite likely that you’ll still get tickets for the Generalife, Gardens and Alcazaba – sometimes even for the Nesrid Palaces.

I myself was there shortly after 7.15am and there was no one in front of me. You have to queue next to the actual entrance gate. However, I was there on a Sunday after the holiday of the discovery of America. Everything was fully booked and I had to wait until the next day.

If you want to play it safe, you’ll have to spend a bit more by booking a guided tour. But to be honest, it’s still worth it in my opinion, because the Alhambra is a must-see attraction. You can find a few offers for Alhambra tours here:

Day hike through the Monachil Gorge

Not far from Granada, along the river Río Monachil, there is a fantastic hiking trail, the Monachil los Cahorros. Here, you can cling to steep rock faces, crawl through narrow gorges and cross wobbly suspension bridges.

Bridge over the river Monachil in the Cahorros de Monachil
The large suspension bridge over the gorge of the river Monachil.

You definitely need sturdy shoes for the hike. You should leave your fear of heights and claustrophobia at home. You should also be fit for the walk. Sun cream is recommended if the sun is shining, as you will be hiking unprotected from sunlight for a large part of the route.

This is how narrow the gorge is. There are also caves that you have to crawl through and sometimes you have to shimmy along iron bars in the wall.

You should plan around 4 hours for the circular hike. Parts of the route are also doable with children, at least up to the large suspension bridge. After that, it gets a little more dangerous.

View over the ravine of Monachil
View over the mountains in the Cahorros de Monachil.

The starting point is in the small town of Monachil, but in principle you can also park directly in front of the waterfalls. I have marked the free car park on the map. From here, keep walking along the right-hand side of the river until you come to a sign. From there, head back towards Hoya Romera la Sabina, over a mountain and back down into the valley.

Sign on the Monachil Los Cahorros walk
At this sign, you have to continue along the hill to the right.
View from the Monachil Los Cahorros circular path.
This view awaits you at the top of the mountain. From here, it takes about 1:30 hours to get back to the car park.

If you have less than 4 hours, you can also just hike to the large suspension bridge and from there back to the village.

The signposting for the circular route is not always easy to find. So it can happen that you get a little lost. You should therefore not set off too late in the day so that you don’t have to walk part of the route in the dark. You can find a detailed map of the route here.

Gate at Monachil Los Cahorros
Note: If you come to this house with a bridge next to it, you’ve gone too far and should turn back.

4: A day through the Sierra Nevada

  • How long? 1-2 days

The region around the Sierra Nevada mountain range (it is the highest on the Iberian Peninsula) offers many hidden highlights that are very little visited by tourists, especially out of season. I found this region to be one of the most beautiful in the whole of Andalusia and in retrospect would have liked to spend more time here.

Castle of Calahorra

From Granada, take the A-92 north of the Sierra Nevada mountains to the village of La Calahorra. This is a good place to make a stopover, as there is a very impressive 16th century castle here – the Castillo de La Calahorra.

Fantastico viewpoint

Continue south along the A-337 through the middle of the mountains. There are many great viewpoints along the road. From the Mirador Fantastico you have a breathtaking view over the entire region north of the Sierra Nevada.

View over the area north of the Sierra Nevada in Andalusia
View over the vastness of the country.

But there are also viewpoints further along the route, such as the Mirador del Barranco del Hornillo or the Mirador del Palancón.

Road trip Andalusia - Road through the Sierra Nevada
The road winding through the Sierra Nevada mountains.

Laroles to Trevélez

The A-337 takes you to the town of Laroles. From here you can take the fantastic mountain road heading west (A-4130).

Serpentine by serpentine, this road takes you through lots of picturesque white villages (Pueblos Blancos) past many more breathtaking viewpoints up to one of the highest villages in Spain – Trevélez.

White village - Pueblo Blanco in the Sierra Nevada in the Sierra Nevada
One of the Pueblos Blancos along the way.

Many painters and musicians from all over the world have settled in the entire region along this road and live alongside the Andalusian locals. You will also notice this when you drive through the villages. You can also stop at one or two of them to explore the idyllic landscape.

Andalusia road trip - goats on the country road
Be careful when driving along the country road – it can happen that goats block the way.

Trevélez

Treveléz is a well-known place throughout Spain, even though it is only a small mountain village. This is where the famous Andalusian ham is produced. The air-dried Serrano ham “Jamón de Trevélez” from here is particularly well-known. The village’s 1,500 metres of altitude certainly contributes to the ham’s great flavour. What’s more, the ham from Trevélez is produced without preservatives and basically consists of just two ingredients: ham and sea salt.

You can visit various ham producers here or buy products from the region in the shops. For example, try the delicious cheese at Jamones Cano González.

Ham sale Jamones Cano González in Trevelez
At Jamones Cano González you can buy cheese and other local products in addition to the famous Jamón.

Pitre’s chocolate factory

Continue in the direction of Pitres. In this town, you should pay a visit to the chocolate factory Chocolates Sierra Nevada. Not only can you buy delicious chocolate here, but you can also watch the chocolate ladies making it and, of course, taste everything before you buy it.

I found the chocolate pralines studded with figs particularly delicious – it’s the house speciality.

Chocolate sale in Pitres
You can not only buy delicious local chocolate there, but also taste it beforehand :)

Stay overnight in a Casa Rural

If you give yourself enough time, you won’t make it to the next stop in Nerja in one day. That’s why you should look for a place to stay overnight along the way. But I would also recommend this – especially spending the night in a slightly higher casa rural. The view from up here over the landscape is simply breathtaking.

Romantic dinner with a view at Cortijo Solera
How about a dinner with a view like this?

I myself stayed at the Casa Rural Cortijo Solera. The road to the property is a little bumpy, but it is doable even with a small car. There is a swimming pool with fantastic views and an idyllic garden.

5. Nerja & Frigiliana

The region around Nerja offers some great attractions. You can relax on chilled-out natural beaches, stroll through Instagram-esque (I just made that word up) mountain villages with amazing views or go on an adventurous hike through a river. It’s best to look for nice accommodation in the region and explore the area in 2 days.

Exploring Nerja

To be honest, Nerja was a bit too touristy for me. I found the region around Nerja much better, which ultimately kept me here for 2 days. However, there are still a few worthwhile sights in Nerja itself:

  • The balcony of Europe – Built in 1885, this terrace offers a magnificent view of the coast around Nerja.
  • The Caves of Nerja – The stalactite caves in Nerja are really impressive and also great for a rainy day.
  • Aqueducto del Aguila – The historic aqueduct is worth a photo. You can photograph it from the bridge but also walk under the aqueduct.
  • Nightlife – Nerja is one of the smaller towns with the most bars and pubs along the coast.
Stalactite caves in Nerja
The stalactite caves in Nerja are among the largest in Europe.
The aqueduct photographed from the street.

The beaches in the Acantilados Maro – Cerro Gordo nature reserve

The beaches around Nerja are often overcrowded, especially in summer. Along the Natural Park Acantilados Maro – Cerro Gordo, however, there are a few smaller beaches that are usually less crowded.

Coastal landscape in the Cerro Gordo Nature Park
This is what the coast around Nerja looks like.

The area is also very popular with naturists and is perfect for a day trip with the family. There are also restaurants and cafés on some of the beaches.

Cala del Cañuelo in the Cerro Gordo nature reserve
Great beaches await you in the Cerro Gordo nature reserve.

Though there is no fine, white sandy beach here, there is a fantastic coastal landscape with authentic natural beaches:

  • Cala del Cañuelo – one of the most beautiful beaches. You have to park the car at the top and walk down for about 20-30 minutes. The path is for residents only. There are 2 restaurants at the bottom
  • Playa de Las Alberquillas – beautiful long natural beach without restaurants.
  • Playa del Pino – small and accessible via a shortcut from the car park.
  • Playa Cantarrijan – you can get to this beach directly by car. There are 2 restaurants next to the car park.
Deer look out over the coastal landscape of Cerro Gordo Nature Park
The local deer also enjoy the view.

At Torre Vigía De Cerro Gordo you also have a great vantage point from which you can see the entire coast.

The view from the Cerro Gordo tower.
This Andalusia road trip also takes you along the coast.

Hike along the Rio Chillar

On this tour, you not only hike next to the Rio Chillar but often ankle-deep in the middle of it. It takes you about 5 kilometres through gorges and flatter plains to a pool with a waterfall where you can refresh yourself. The route is also doable with children.

waterfall at Rio Chillar
This waterfall is the final destination of the hike. You can cool off from your exertions in it.

The coolest hike in Andalusia? – River hike through the Río Chillar

If you start from the small hut at the entrance, the hike will take around 2-3 hours each way, depending on your pace. So in total you should plan about 5-7 hours with breaks.

Water flows along a gorge on the Rio Chillar
You have to hike through gorges like this. But don’t worry, the route is not very difficult. This is the most difficult part.
TIP:

Start early in the morning – preferably shortly after the sun has risen. In October, this is around 9:00 am. Then there are probably very few other tourists out and about and you can enjoy nature in peace and quiet.

Mountain village Frigiliana

The white village of Frigiliana has received a lot of attention on social media recently. This is largely due to the typical narrow streets with views over the mountains to the sea. In my opinion, the most beautiful thing here are the sunsets.

Madness: The view from Frigiliana to the mountains and the coast at sunset.

There are also a large number of great restaurants here. My favourites:

  • Restaurante El Jardín – Because you can dine with a view over the mountains from here.
  • Restaurante la Taberna de Espartero – because it’s a real Andalusian restaurant with authentic dishes. The green peppers here are delicious, but also spicy as hell ;)
Andalusia road trip: Frigiliana alleyways
The upper part of the village is the older one. Here you will find the many small winding alleyways and many souvenir shops.

6. Málaga and Caminito del Rey

Málaga is the perfect starting point for a hike along the famous Caminito del Rey. But the city itself is also well worth a visit.

Exploring Málaga

Málaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and the second largest city in Andalusia. There is much more information in the following article:

Málaga tips – 16 highlights & insider tips you’ll love

Hike the Caminito del Rey

The Caminito del Rey is one of the world’s most famous hiking trails. It was once so dangerous that it had to be closed in 2015 due to a number of deaths.

Gorge through which the Caminito del Rey leads
Gorge through which the Caminito del Rey leads

After extensive restoration, it has been reopened and can now be safely walked by all kinds of tourists. However, the hike is so popular that you need to book a ticket at least two weeks in advance. You can do this on the website caminitodelrey.info.

Dangerous path of the Caminito del Rey
You can still see parts of the old, life-threatening path over which the current wooden paths lead after the renovation.

The path starts in the north (there are also several paid car parks here) and leads south to the train station of El Chorro. Buses run regularly from here to the car park.

Forest landscape at Caminito del Rey
The route leads not only through ravines, but also through the forest landscape in between.

I recommend an unguided half-day hike. That’s easily enough time. In my opinion, guided tours are not really worthwhile. But you can still use them if there are no more tickets available in the ticket shop for your favourite date.

But the region around the hiking trail is also worth exploring.

  • The reservoirs on the Caminito del Rey alone are worth a visit. The lakes are surrounded by roads with little traffic. If you have enough time, you can explore them
  • Not far from the Caminito del Rey (around 30 minutes by car) is the Lagoon of Fuente de Piedra – the largest wetland area in Andalusia. What makes it so special is that the lagoon is home to the largest flamingo colony in Spain. You can observe the flamingos here from afar.
  • The El Torcal Nature Park is also located in the surrounding area. Its layered rock formations and views as far as the coast to Málaga are particularly special.
Flamingos in the Laguna de Fuente de Piedra
The flamingos chill in the last sunlight of the day at the Laguna de Fuente de Piedra.

As you can see, the east of Andalusia has a lot to offer. Which other stops on this Andalusia route do you know? I look forward to your comment.

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